2009 Weingut Prager Stockkultur Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau

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2009 Weingut Prager Stockkultur Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau

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Tony Bodenstein is Austria's most celebrated winemaker. Since taking over his father-in-law's already prestigious estate many years ago, Bodenstein has turned Prager into the standard against which all other Wachau wines are compared.

Old Mr. Prager pioneered dry wines in the Wachau, and Bodenstein seems to have taken this as his cue to produce not only the Wachau's driest wines, but also the most linear, intense, and focused. A Prager wine is the very definition of what wine drinkers describe as "minerality." The minerals pierce the tongue, linger, and then build in the mouth, leaving the sensation of salty brine and liquefied rocks.

The Prager estate consists of 15 hectares (around 37 acres) planted entirely to Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, all in the top sites of the Wachau. The Achleiten vineyard is arguably the Wachau's greatest vineyard of all, giving wines of unmatched richness and definition. Bodenstein's work in the cellar is absolutely meticulous. All Prager wines are fermented with their wild, ambient yeasts. He once said, "you can't show the differences with foreign yeasts."

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