Barbera is often mentioned as the wine the Piemontese drink while they wait for their Nebbiolos to mature. It’s known as “the people’s wine” for its versatility and abundant production, and is the wine most consumed in the region. Its gorgeously deep ruby color, juicy acidity, and bitter red fruit dance a tightrope between sweet and savory, making it incredibly useful at the table.
Barbera is likely to have originated in the Monferrato Hills in the southeast corner of Piedmont where it is still given preferential treatment, especially in the frazione of Nizza. It also receives top billing in Asti where Nebbiolo is less common. It was in Asti where Braida di Giacomo Bologna was the first to age Barbera in expensive French barriques in the 1980s, resulting in the benchmark bottling Bricco dell’Uccellone.
Alba, on the other hand, is prime Barolo country, where Nebbiolo is almost always planted in the best sites. But the producers of Barolo and Barbaresco have always grown and produced Barbera, and in some instances, like Elio Altare’s single-vineyard Barbera named Larigi, the producers of Alba have managed to elevate humble and drinkable Barbera into a serious and collectable world-class wine.
|