 The Jura is the smallest wine region in France and is sometimes thought of as Burgundy's "country cousin." It lies just 80 km east of Burgundy, with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir accounting for half of its plantings. The other half is made up of obscure grapes like Savignin and Trousseau, and those wines can seem from an earlier era. Red Jura wines can be pale and austere, and white Jura wines are often deliberately and knowingly oxidized. Vin Jaune is one such wine with its yellow color and nutty, oxidative flavor. A new breed of winemakers, however, controversially top up their casks.
Jura’s unorthodox traditions can be partially attributed to the isolation associated with the Jura Mountains. Vines grow on the lower mountain slopes from Arbois to Lons le Saunier, where Jurassic limestone gives the Jura region its name and the Jura wines their unique flavor.
The basic Côtes du Jura appellation can be red, white, or rosé, and sparkling Jura wines are sold under the name Crémant du Jura. The Jura’s most unique wines, however, are bottled under three communal appellations: Arbois, L’Etoile, and Château Chalon. Arbois, the Jura’s commercial hub, was the hometown of Louis Pasteur (the village of Pupillin may append its name to Arbois). L’Etoile is a white-wine-only appellation and takes its name from a local star-shaped fossil.
Poulsard (or Ploussard), Trousseau, and Pinot Noir are the main varietals used to produce red Jura wines. Poulsard gives very pale color but its refreshing acidity makes it very attractive at the table. Trousseau, grown mainly near the northern village of Arbois, gives more color and backbone than Poulsard. Pinot Noir is mostly grown in the southern Jura where there is more limestone than clay. Blends of the three can be labeled Rubis or Corail.
Chardonnay is the Jura's most-planted variety and is a key component in Crémant de Jura. It can be blended with Savagnin and sold as Côtes du Jura or l'Etoile. Savagnin, known locally as Naturé, is the same varietal as Traminer, a relative of Gewurztraminer. These wines are traditionally aged in old Burgundy pièces or foudres where the casks are not topped up. This leads to the development of voile, a film of yeast similar to Sherry’s flor which covers the surface of the wine. Chardonnay made this way is labeled “Tradition” or “Typé.” Fleur de Chardonnay, like Fleur de Savagnin, is a wine that was raised with fully topped-up casks, a technique known as ouillé. Savagnin ouillé is a modern style that has caused some controversy amongst growers.
Vin Jaune and Vin de Paille are local specialties of the region. Vin Jaune is made exclusively from Savagnin and develops flavors of curry and walnuts after six years of aging sous voile. The richest Vins Jaunes come from the hilltop village of Château-Chalon where Jean Macle, Berthet-Bondet, and David Geneletti produce wines with the classic goût du jaune. By EU law, all Vin Jaune must be bottled in a squat 620 ml bottle called a clavelin. Vin de Paille is a blend of attic-dried Poulsard, Chardonnay and Savagnin aged for a minimum of three years. Finally, a vin de liqueurs called Macvin du Jura is produced where marc is added to unfermented grape must.
|
