 Even in its most restrained interpretation, Condrieu gives such an exotic and tropical punch of New World aroma that one doubts—if just for a moment—that the wine in one’s glass is French. Viognier, the grape variety responsible for Condrieu’s honey and apricot aroma, also makes an unexpected appearance in the neighboring red wine appellation of Côte-Rôtie where it can be co-fermented with Syrah (the theory being it stabilizes red wine color!). These two grapes, along with Marsanne and Roussane (both white), make up the whole of the Northern Rhône’s plantings.
Condrieu’s exuberant personality was nearly rendered obsolete in the 1960s when just a few hectares of Viognier remained. Even today, Condrieu and its sub-appellation of Château Grillet consist of just 242 hectares, and its obscurity coupled with the difficulty of farming hillsides of 55 degrees means Condrieu is both rare and expensive. Rare and expensive might also best describe the wines of Côte-Rôtie, where Syrah achieves its most alluring and seductive manifestation in its heat-retaining granitic soils. The négociant firm of Étienne Guigal came to international fame in the early 1980s when critics heaped praise upon the three single Côte-Rôtie vineyards: La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque.
The traditional benchmark for Syrah, however, lies further south at the imposing hill of Hermitage. So powerful is Hermitage that it used to be blended with Burgundy and Bordeaux to bolster their color and strength. Hermitage also comes in a white version from a blend of Marsanne and Rousanne. Red Hermitage is generally 100% Syrah. The négociants Delas, Jaboulet, and Chapoutier, along with Jean-Louis Chave, dominate this hill, although Marc Sorrel and Albert Belle have vines here as well. Hermitage is divided into many climats that often make their way onto the label: L’Hermite, le Méal, les Bessards, Gréffieux, Beaume, and Péléat are just a few of many. All Hermitage wines carry a hefty price tag.
Surrounding the hill of Hermitage is the much larger appellation of Crozes-Hermitage. In the hands of its best growers, the grape gives a particularly smoky, peppery version of Syrah in Crozes, while Marsanne and Roussanne are used for white wine. Syrah and Marsanne/Roussanne are also the components of St-Joseph, rouge and blanc, respectively. You will hear rumblings of the St-Joseph appellation being variable, but in the hands of Philippe Faury, we find one of the Northern Rhône’s greatest values. There is also the curious St-Péray appellation at the southern end of the Northern Rhône which produces white and sparkling wines from Marsanne and Roussanne.
But we’ve saved the best for last with Cornas, an amphitheater of fine granitic sand and clay with a streak of limestone scree. Cornas, meaning “burnt earth,” has often been portrayed as the rough-and-tumble cousin of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. Today, Cornas is a leading appellation producing much sought after wines commanding top dollar. The land is divided among four quarters, or lieux-dits: Les Reynards, La Côte, Les Chaillot, and Les Mazards, and the wines of Auguste Clape and Thierry Allemand have made Cornas one of France’s elite appellations.
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