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Sangiovese is Italy's most planted grape variety. It is planted throughout Italy though its most famous incarnations are found in Tuscany where it is transformed into the dry and savory wines of Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino. Sangiovese's character is often described as blood and iron and indeed its name is derived from "sanguis Jovis" [blood of Jove].
Not many generations ago, Chianti was perceived to be a shrill and acidic drink, served from fiascos in Italian-American restaurants. These wines have not yet entirely disappeared but Chianti today is one of Europe's most improved wine regions. Much of the problem stemmed from an inferior clone of Sangiovese known as Sangiovese Piccolo which gave high yields but lacked in other attributes.
Thanks to initiatives such as Chianti Classico 2000 project which helped to eradicate inferior Sangiovese clones, today's Chianti and especially Chianti Classico is planted almost entirely to the superior Sangiovese Grosso.
There have been other dramatic changes in Chianti not least was a tinkering of Chianti's traditional blend. In the nineteenth century, Baron Bettino Ricasoli mandated that the recipe for Chianti recipe must consist of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo and 15% Malvasia bianca (a white grape variety!). Chianti may now be produced from 100% Sangiovese and the white grapes have been banished.
Tuscany's powerful dry red wine known as Brunello di Montalcino has only existed since the mid-19th century when a man named Clemente Santi isolated a special clone of Sangiovese Grosso and dubbed it "Brunello" (little brown one). Brunello produces powerful, intensely flavored and long-lived red wines which are capable of aging magnificently in cool cellars. Brunello di Montalcino is today one of Italy's, if not the world's, most collectible red wines.
While things were just getting started in Montalcino the nearby town of Montepulciano had already discovered a superior Sangiovese clone of their own known as Prugnolo Gentile. The "Noble Wine" of Montepulciano today is often placed between Chianti Classico Reserva and Brunello di Montalciano in terms of power and ageability.
Yet another clone of Sangiovese Grosso can be found in Maremma, Tuscany's coastal region along the Mediterranean Sea. Here Sangiovese is known as "Morellino."
No matter where Sangiovese is grown is should be bone dry and have high-toned acidity. It is often described as having a roasted herb quality with accents of fennel bulb and clove. It is an essential wine at the table and is brilliant when paried with red meat or earthy dishes such as risotto flavored with porcini mushrooms.
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