 Vitovska is a white Slovenian grape variety grown almost exclusively in the tiny Carso district near Trieste in Italy’s Friuli Venezia-Giulia region. It is also found in neighboring Kras (Karst) area of Slovenia where it is known as Vitouska or Vitovska Garganja. Vitovska is a cross between Prosecco Tondo and Malvasia Bianca Lunga.
The name Vitovska translates as “wine of the rider” and is characterized by small greenish-gold berries. Previous generations never viewed Vitovska as a grape that produced age-worthy wines, but a small number of dedicated growers have proven the variety to be capable of concentrated flavors and intense minerality punctuated with acidic nerve.
The name Carso means “land of rock” and the region is characterized by bedrock hidden beneath the shallow iron-rich layer of red topsoil. The rocky soil and the bora winds make for extremely difficult growing conditions and makes the success of Carso’s top producers that much more remarkable.
The influence of Josko Gravner in nearby Oslavje can be felt here and both amphorae and tank styles of Vitovska are produced. Top Producers include Edi Kante, Vodopivec, Zidarich, Milic, and Cotar in Slovenia.
At a tasting in Paolo Vodopivec’s home we were presented with a plate of cured hand-cut ham prepared by Paolo’s mother. The pairing was profound. The macerated styles of Vitovska work well with roasts of poultry or braised pork with boiled potatoes. Tank styles of Vitovska have traditionally been the fragrant and flinty accompaniments to fresh seafood in Trieste.
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